The Lowdown on Sevilla, Spain.
November 14th, 2003 | The lowdown by Emily Masamitsu
Sevilla's Secret Hotspot
On a tiny little crooked street, in the mixed up Barrio Santa Cruz of Sevilla, there stands a bright red door. From the outside, this door could be the entrance to another apartment. But in reality, its a passage to the most amazingly eclectic group of people you will ever find assembled in Sevilla. This red door is the enterance to El Carbonerķa.
If you ask anyone in Sevilla, they will no doubt have heard of El Carbonerķa, but ask for directions, and you may be out of luck. If you persist and manage to find your way there, you will be rewarded with the best Flamenco bar I have ever been to.
There is no sign on the outside of El Carbonerķa to inform you you have reached your destination. However, there should be a bouncer who will reassure you that are in the right place. When we first arrived, we thought 'this can“t be it' and asked the man in black. Yes, he said with a chuckle, this is it, and opened the door to this hotspot.
Inside, there are three rooms. The first is small and crowded and uncomfortable when you first enter. Make your way through the door at the back left of this room, however, and you will find a huge hall filled with wooden benches and picknick style tables. On the left there is a long bar, and towards the back wall, lies the stage.
The beauty of El Carbonerķa, is that it is not a Flamenco show. If you are looking for dancers, go somewhere else. There is no organized entertainment and all the performers are talented locals just looking to have a good time. The regulars know each other and give this place a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
My favorite performance was definitly the family act. A duet, of a singer and guitarist performed twice, and both times, the singer“s toddler son jumped on stage to dance. The little guy was about 4 or 5 years old, but definately had been introduced to the Flamenco life early. Every time he would do his Flamenco twirl, we all went wild with laughter and amazement. And it didn“t hurt that he was adorable, too.
In the front room, a couple of regulars got up to dance as a man played Flamenco on the piano, a style new to me. The singers belted out their lyrics, and those knowledgeable about the clapping style joined in from all parts of the room. Order a beer or a pitcher of Sangria and enjoy the music with your friends. Its more authentic than a show, and definitly a lot cheaper.
We were so enamored with El Carbonerķa, we made our way back on Saturday night. Unfortunately, El Carbonerķa didn“t open that night. Apparently, some neighbors had complained about it the night before, so they just figured to take the night off. This irregularity is part of what gives the place its charm and authentic feeling.
The best advice I can give on finding your way there, is to ask. If you start from the Cathedral, make your way towards Barrio Santa Cruz, starting at the plaza end of the Cathedral. Pass all the little bars, stay to the left of Calle las Cruzas, and keep heading that direction until you hit Hotel Alfonso III. If you follow the little street on the right side of the hotel, you will hit Levies, take it to the left and you will get there. But we never would have made it there without the help of some friendly locals, so don't be afraid to ask. Sevilla is a pretty late night town, so don“t plan on any action before 1 am.
