October 16th, 2006 | The lowdown by Aaron Fowles

Lush and Green Living, Korean-style.

Look south of the Korean peninsula and you’ll see an island shaped like a peanut. That little speck in the Korea Strait is Jeju (sometimes spelled Cheju, pronounced JAY-joo). No visit to Korea is complete without a stopover to the island of “wind, women, and stones.”

According to legend, Jeju was formed when three gods erupted from the ground and established kingdoms. This legend could be attributed to the fact that Jeju is a volcanic island: lava, gods—it’s all one. As a volcanic island, Jeju is covered with volcanic rocks. Over the years, the locals have found many uses for these rocks, including carving thousands of Harubang statues. Harubang is the “stone grandfather” of Jeju, providing oversight and protection for all that goes on here.

The island can be divided by cardinal directions. The north side of the island holds the capital and largest city: Jeju City. It’s a city to be sure, but it’s not as cramped or hectic as Seoul or Busan. The east side is scenic and inviting, and at its farthest point is Sunrise Peak, from which can be seen a scene of true delight: sunrise over the water. The south side of the island is great for resorts and water sports. For golfing, head west. In the center of the island you’ll find Jeju’s volcano, Mt. Halla. There are a number of trails available to cater to your needs and abilities. Make sure you set out early so you can get back down before sunset. All around the island you’ll find beaches, beaches, and more beaches.

You won’t be disappointed by the food. Jeju’s seafood is the best in all of Korea, or so they say. You will also find many precious groves of tangerine trees. Jeju provides Korea with most of its tangerines and you can buy tangerine juice in the shops. It’s extra sweet.

Last but not least, there are plenty of Korean traditions alive and well on the island. There are plenty of temples to please the eyes and calm the soul, as well as re-creations of old government palaces. The locals can often be found wearing traditional persimmon-dyed clothing. It sure looks comfortable, but this writer laments his unfortunate bearing, which could not be asked to fit into Korean sizes. Make sure you find some haenyeo, Jeju’s famous female divers. They go into the water with only a wetsuit, a net, fins, and a mask and they bring back clams, seaweed, and other waterborne delicacies.

Flights to Jeju leave Seoul’s Gimpo airport every hour and run about 60 dollars each way. You can also get here by ferry from Seoul, Mokpo, or Busan. So if you’re ever in the area, make sure you visit amazing and colorful Jeju.