January 3rd, 2004 | The lowdown by Rhonda Van Hasselt

On Visiting Singapore

Singapore stands out as an anomaly within Southeast Asia because it is highly efficient and sterile when compared to its neighbors Malaysia and Indonesia that encase the city-nation at the edge of the equator.

A backpacker or leisure traveler will enjoy the many comforts and facilities Singapore offers that its neighbors lack or have less abundance of: efficient and clean public transportation, well maintained roads, glittering shopping malls, top rate public hospitals, and plenty of fine dining at low prices. But one’s first impression of Singapore is that it is bland: it lacks the rugged adventure Indonesia offers and the lush beaches and landscapes of Malaysia.

My number one advice to anyone considering visiting Singapore is to befriend local people and remain in Singapore for at least a few weeks. As in any other area, no country is fully experienced until the traveler interacts with the locals. This is no exception for Singapore. If anything, it is the rule, for many of the characteristics that distinguish Singapore from all other parts of the world is the philosophical and ethical outlook of its people.

For instance, in my travels in Southeast Asia I have found no group of people more intent on academic and economic achievement than Singaporeans. Students are pushed by their parents to compete for the top grade that will get them to the best foreign university, while adults fight to get the next promotion and salary raise.

Concerning race, Singapore’s management of ethnic groups sets a good example for America. While Singaporean society is comprised of three primary ethnic groups: Malays, Indians, and Chinese, I found that the Chinese emphasis on Confucianism, with its emphasis on filial piety, devotion to the state, and sacrifice for the community, dominates. This is because Singapore is 76% Chinese. Yet there is a strictly enforced government policy of racial equality and multiculturalism. Under the law no race is above another and no publication may target any racial group with racist slurs. English is the primary national language so that the different groups can communicate with each other. But the languages of Mandarin (Chinese), Malay (Malayans), and Tamil (Indians), are also the national languages to prevent favoritism of any one group. Perhaps this explains why there have been no racial riots since the 1960s.

Another unique trait of Singaporeans is their willingness to follow laws and rules. Very seldom did I see anyone jay walk or litter on the street. Perhaps they were deterred by the US$300 fine that they would face if caught, or perhaps it is from a deep pride and respect for their society. What is evident is that the laws are strict and freedom of speech and press is not allowed. Any public protest against the government’s policies is silenced as dissenters are given free accommodation in the Singapore “Hotel”. I recall one girl at the National University of Singapore bemoaning the inability of her classmates to mount any protests on campus. She could not imagine the massive rallies and public protests so common to US campuses like at UC Berkeley and UCLA.

Another unique trait to Singaporeans is their adoration for food. With cuisines from South India, Malaysia, all regions of China, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Western Europe, and the occasional fast food outlet, it is common to find crowds of Singaporeans at outdoor eateries called “canteens” trying the local delicacies and sipping Milo, a drink much similar to oval tine. And yet the paradox is that I seldom saw anyone with a wide waistline.

First time visitors and even locals might remark that Singapore is “bland” and “uninteresting.” There is some truth to this: Singapore has a low crime rate and its public facilities (and image) are very clean. But is this so bad? Given the challenges it faced as an independent tiny nation in a predominantly Islamic region, Singapore has risen from third world status to developed nation within forty years. This is quite a feat given that even Malaysia and Indonesia have been unable to reach the high standard of living and income per capita that Singaporeans enjoy. Personally I prefer the bland sterility and reliability of Singapore to the grime and crime of Jakarta.

The traveler will best appreciate Singapore if he takes a few hours to read up on Singapore’s short history and, more importantly, acquaints himself with locals and remains within the country over an extended period. Otherwise he will overlook the many subtleties of Singaporean society that make the country so interesting.