June 27th, 2006 | The lowdown by Bryan Fox

A Visit To Pachacamac

While the ruins at Pachacamac are technically the closest site of size near the Lima area, that doesn't necessarily mean they are worth the trip. The site is expansive, several large structures spread out over a wide area, but most of the buildings are simply half- (or three-quarter-) eroded adobe walls, some fronted by simple explanatory signs that all point to the fact that most of what anybody knows about the Incas is largely conjecture.

The artifacts have all been looted (some do remain in Lima's museums) and the excavations of the site are ongoing, though funding for such things remains a perpetual problem in the country.

On a clear day (and there aren't all that many around Lima) you can get a pretty picturesque ocean view from atop the hills around the site, but one would think that the primary reason for going to see ruins shouldn't be for the views afforded FROM them. One bonus, though, is that not many people bother to make the trip, especially not in the morning, so if you do go out there, you'll be able to traipse around largely undisturbed.

But getting there isn't a picnic. A taxi from the centre of Lima will run you about $15, $25 if you want the driver to wait for you, and according to the driver I had the buses on the way back don't often stop near the site because it's across the highway from a particularly unsavoury shanty town, with dogs that may or may not be rabid and locals that may or may not mind your presence while waiting to hail a ride back. There are tour companies that will offer a 'package' tour which gives you a breakfast you won't want and a guide who won't know much more than you can find out from the 1 sol map they sell at the site for $35, but that seems to be something of a waste.

All in all, if you've got an extra half-day to throw around and you aren't going to Machu Picchu or any other of the more impressive sites around the country, then there are worse ways to pass your time. But your vacation will not suffer greatly from giving this one a pass.