June 27th, 2006 | The lowdown by Bryan Fox

Words to the Wise - Some Things the Other Guides Won't Tell You...

1. Don't lose the very loseable slip of paper they give you and put into your passport when you enter the country, or you'll be charged $4 for it on the way out. It's a form of keeping track of entries and departures of foreigners. "But isn't that what the computer for?" I asked the rotund customs officer, in Spanish. "Yes," but this is another form we have," he replied corpulently. "But what if I don't pay, will you force me to stay in the country?" I pressed. "Just pay," he huffed. And I did.

2. Whatever price they quote you for a taxi ride to ANYWHERE in Lima from the airport, demand they charge half. A ride from the centre of town to the airport costs 15-20 soles. The other way around, they will try and divest you of $18-25, and that just ain't right. The Urbanito bus is no longer in operation, as of June 15, 2006. Lack of interest. There are collectivo buses to be had from the airport to the centre, but they involve crossing a bridge and walking through some fairly insalubrious territory.

3. Keep your US dollars clean. For some reason, which no one could adequately explain to me (I gave up after asking 4 or 5 visibly bothered limenos) they will try to offer you a lower rate of exchange if you bill has even the slightest of creases or marks on it. Counterfeiting is a big business in South America, and every casa de cambio you enter will look over your money like they are Leo DiCaprio in Catch Me If You Can. So, to avoid unnecessary hassle, take care of the money you have. Folding up the bills and stuffing them under the insoles of your shoes for safety, which I did, caused far more problems than I could have imagined. Come to think of it, maybe it was just the smell.