January 9th, 2006 | The lowdown by Dave Schnock

Slurp Ramen and Scope the Mafia: Shinjuku.

The area outside of Shinjuku Station’s East Exit is gaudy and exciting, and is the place I spend most of my time in Shinjuku.

Here you’ll find the infamous area of Kabuki Cho, on the opposite side of Yasakuni Dori. This is a hangout for all walks of life, the most notorious of them being the yakuza (Japanese mafia).

You may see them driving by in their Mercedes-Benzes with black-tinted windows, or walking by sporting an expensive suit and black sunglasses.

On some nights, there are just a bunch of drag queens walking around. One Friday as a friend and I were leaving a movie theater, one of them tried to pick up on my friend! What a surprise that was for him, and how funny for me!!

But, as you may have guessed, this is probably one of the more dangerous areas in Tokyo, and even all of Japan. Of course, dangerous in Japan is still relatively safe, but make sure you’re a bit more careful in this area.

Despite its reputation for being “the” red light district of all red light districts in Japan, there are a lot of good restaurants and bars here. One of my favorite places to eat ramen is called Tenjin Hakata Ramen, in Kabuki Cho. They have some great Kyushu style tonkotsu ramen, which is ramen made from the boiling of pig bones.

This favorite milky white dish of many businessmen is sooo fattening, but oh so delicious. You may be taken aback by the slurping at first, and the speed at which it’s consumed here and in all ramen shops, but it is just one of those little differences about being in a foreign country that make your vacation more rewarding. (Just don’t bring the slurping habit home with you!)

Don’t forget to grab a free coupon from the entrance for some kaidama, or extra noodles. Leave some of your soup in the bowl, order a kaidama using the coupon, and voila! Another bowl of ramen for you to inhale. Tenjin Hakata Ramen is located about 50 or 60 meters on the left side behind the famous red gate of Kabuki Cho. Just look for the big smiling pig.

Another businessman favorite that goes great with beer is "yakitori." This is simply chicken meat skewered and grilled, but there are a few different ways it can be prepared, and a few different parts of the chicken that are used, such as the neck or liver. Try ordering the negima at first, which is just chicken meat and a little onion-like vegetable, and not some strange part of the chicken.

As you get more confident (and more drunk), you might want to try some other dishes. If you are wondering where to try this treat, Omouide Yokacho and Yakitori Yokacho will offer more than enough in the way of choices. These two alleyways are pretty similar in what they serve, but Omouide Yokacho has an older atmosphere.

Translated into English, it means something like memory lane. When you walk through this alleyway, you will be able to get a feel for what Tokyo was like before its modern facelift. The stores that line these two streets spit out smoke produced from grilling, which adds to the aura.

It’s also a great place to meet some of the colorful locals and the occasional gaijin (foreigner). When I go here, I go to a place called Komatsu. This little dude was standing there while I was walking through one day, and he invited passersby in to his place with a nice, welcoming smile.

I couldn’t resist, and I have been there a few times since and nowhere else on Omouide Yokacho. Just hang a right from the central West Exit, and take your next right. The two alleyways will be on the left hand side.