October 27th, 2006 | The lowdown by Liz Fouksman

Rickshaw Haggling

One of the most stressful experiences of navigating through Delhi - or any major Indian city - is the infinitely repeated process of bargaining with your rickshaw-walla.

Barring the possibility that you are (or can pass for) Indian, you will inevitably get ripped off, particularly in those parts of Delhi more used to travelers such as Connaught Place, Main Bazaar, or at the New Delhi station. The only hope is to minimize the damage by a) bargaining like mad and b) speaking Hindi (or pretending you can).

Begin by stating where it is you want to go:
“Beya, C.P. chellogay?” [Brother, let’s go to C.P.]

The imperative word here, especially if one is female, is “beya.”

Most rickshaw-wallas will then nod and motion you to get into the rickshaw. Never do so without first settling the price.

Ask: “Kitna logay?” [How much will you take?]
The driver will look you up and down, weigh your degree of pinkness and gullibility against the fact that you speak Hindi, and then name a price. This is where it gets tricky. The price will be invariably too high – the walla expects you to bargain – but it will be especially so around any of the major tourist spots listed above.

There, one can usually demand half the first asking price, in less touristy spots ask ten to thirty rupees off, as seems appropriate. Note also that the number of people one has in a rickshaw affects the asking price – more people means more petrol.

“Bahoot z’yada hai!” [That’s very expensive!] or “Tik boliye!” [Say the right price!] both let the walla know that you are not to be taken in. These exclamations can be followed by your offer, slightly lower then what you are ready to pay, because your rickshaw driver will want to bargain.

This is when the straight haggling occurs:
“Sixty.”
“Forty.”
“OK, fifty-five, last price.”
“Forty-five.”

Never seem in a hurry, and let your eyes wander off to other rickshaw drivers, and do not be afraid to begin walking away – this is the most effective bargaining tool you have. And if one rickshaw-walla refuses to give the correct rate, leave and go to another and another.

But in the end, remember that what is pennies to you is bread (or rather, chapati) to them, and while charging tourists exorbitant rates is unjust, most can afford to part with a bit more than the locals.

Finally, before getting in the rickshaw, it is always wise to ask “Rasta malum hai?” [Do you know the way?] - though the answer, whether true or not, will invariably be “Ji-ha” [Yes].