October 8th, 2003 | The lowdown by Nema Milaninia

Visiting Alexandria

There's a pleasant taste when you visit Alexandria. It's not quite Egypt, its not quite Mediterranean but ultimately it's absolutely gorgeous. The combination of cultures brings out its character, one which any traveler will enjoy particularly after coming out of Cairo. Alexandria, a city named after Alexander III of Macedon (or popularly called "Alexander the Great") is a rich city sitting on the shores of where the Nile meets the Mediterranean. After the destruction of its great artifacts the city fell into mediocrity, a get away for Cairones, but not for the advent traveler. The beautification process and subsequent opening of the Library of Alexandria dramatically changed that opinion. Now the city gleams on the corniche and has become a get away which rivals the resorts by the Red Sea.

On my visit to the great city I believe that there are certain experiences which should never be neglected, beginning with the train travel to and from Alexandria to Cairo. There's nothing particularly wonderful about the scenery, nor does the system itself pose some impressive qualities as such. It is more the experience itself. Foreign travelers are required to purchase second or first class tickets compared to the third class which most Egyptians use. The seats are quite comfortable and comparable to arrangements in Europe, specifically when one considers that the train was contracted and built by the French. Moreover the ride lasts approximately two hours of which a train is offered every hour on the hour from 8am to 8pm every day of the week. Given the other alternative by bus, the train is the suitable alternative.

On arriving, make sure you take the second stop into Alexandria. If you?re a tourist, right across the plaza is a great place to start - the Roman Amphitheater. Mind you the theater is quite pitiful compared to the large relics one can find in Rome or Jordan. Therefore I recommend bypassing it and going straight to either the Library of Alexandria or the Catacombs, the highlights of the Alexandrian tourism. The Library, however, can be a bit tricky if one doesn't know the opening and closing times. Apparently given the enormous costs of construction, the Library is open at odd hours and its collection is sparse. It's not uncommon to enter and find rows and rows of shelves lighted by the magic of technology, empty and deserted. Nevertheless, it's certainly a site to see and worthy of an hour or two of your time. Word of caution, the library is closed on Tuesday and is open from 3 to 7pm on Friday and Saturdays. On all other days the library is open from 8am to 7pm.

On the food scene I have one recommendation for fish lovers: go to the Fish Market Restaurant located on the corniche in between the library and Fort Qaitbey. The restaurant offers some of the best fish in Alexandria at an unreasonable price, at least for Egyptians. For the foreigner you'll find yourself spending approximately 50-100LE ($7-$14) for each dish.

Last but certainly not least?visit the beach. Most travelers spend too much of their time viewing the past rather then appreciating the present. Once on the corniche head east and you'll find various pubic beaches, usually inhabited by large hairy Egyptian men. Women be careful! Do not wear something overly revealing unless you have the opportunity to attend a private beach where you'll find the people remarkably liberal.

On whole, Alexandria is a fantastic place to visit and a place that can never be ignored. Whether or not you enjoy the sites Alex, as we affectionately call the city, is a wonderful get away from Cairo. Simply put, it promises no pollution. Heaven on Earth compared to a city where by the simple act of standing for one day is the equivalent of smoking 30 cigarettes.