July 19th, 2005 | The lowdown by Joella Adams

The Quest for the Famous Belgian Beer Bible - Delirium Café

For a friendly and attractive introduction to Belgian beer, with a selection of 2,500 different brews and a promise of 2,004 in stock at all times, Delirium is a find. Centrally located (albeit hard to find), Delirium proudly holds up its 'beer bible' to any other Belgian bar without taking itself too seriously.

Delirium is easiest to locate for those who know 'Janneke Piss' (Manneke's female and lesser-known counterpart) so if you are having trouble, ask a local to point you in her direction.

Once you're there, head for the alley across from the statue, off the Rue des Bouchers, which is also worth a visit. Colorful restaurants spill onto the pedestrian street, with loud and charming Italian waiters exuberantly recruiting tourists who stroll by. A good plan would be a beer (or three) before or after dinner in the Bouchers area, which is right off the Grand Plaz.

Delirium is a sight, with walls covered in keg-tops, old bottle openers and beer advertisements. Glasses of at least a hundred different beers hang over the bar and off the ceiling and Cracked leather-bound books weighing at least 2 pounds are handed to you when you ask for a menu, but you won't find any food in its pages. Instead you'll read detailed English descriptions of over 300 Belgian beers and a list of a thousand more.

The tables are heavy oak beer barrels and the room resembles a wine cellar. Prices are mid-range to high because many of these beers are specialty; expect to pay 3 - 4 Euros for a hefty glass. Keep in mind that beer here is stronger than American brews back home, and ask for suggestions from the bartender. Chances are he will be more than happy to share some tips with you. Some of my personal favorites include Brughse Triple, Kriek Lambic Framboise, and Kwak

The general rule of "don't mix alcohols" applies here with different types of beer. For example, drinking a heavy, dark Guinness and then a light Pilsner followed by a fruity, fizzy Kriek might not do your stomach good. Better stick to one type of beer, but trying sips of your friends' beers and putting a few more names under your belt will not do much harm.

The scene is a bit touristy but fun, the location is excellent once you find it, and the beer is undeniably great. Delirium is a great place to begin your night.

Delerium is located on Impasse De La Fidelité, in the back alley under the sign with a pink elephant.