April 12th, 2006 | The lowdown by Mark Burgess

San Lorenzo

Of the many day trips one can make from Salta, San Lorenzo – the most luxurious of the city’s neighboring barrios – offers the fewest headaches in terms of cost, planning and accessibility. The permanent residence of Salta’s wealthy, this nearby hill is a prime summertime spot for cooling off in the shade of its shallow streams, and makes for short, pleasant hikes year-round.
A mere half-hour ride on a local bus from the city center (bus 7E from Calle San Martin, near the base of the funicular; take it all the way to the last stop - $0.90 pesos), it poses none of the complications of tour agencies, long rides, and getting up early that the longer day trips present. Its scenery is not as unique, either, but walking in its lush cloud forests or wading in its streams with a mate is as good a way as any to pass a sunny afternoon.

In the searing summer months from November to March, this is asado country. Families come in bunches to picnic in style, lugging coal, thermos', soccer balls, and, of course, beef. There is a row of little grills lining the river near the bus stop and more further upstream. A short hike uphill will earn you all the privacy you desire, as long as you don’t object to the occasional intrusion of a cow or bull wandering into your bathing area for a drink. The more adventurous can continue further up into the hills, choosing a route randomly from the splintering trails, walking past families living in simple huts with chicken coops, upwards to a spectacular view of the city below.
In the winter, San Lorenzo is the only area of the city to be regularly blessed, or cursed, with snow, which either adds novelty to the landscape or, of course, gives reason for it to be avoided.
For those not looking for a picnic or a hike, there is also a restaurant at the quebrada’s edge with a sunny terrace hanging over the stream. With the peaceful landscape and sounds of running water just below, El Duende de la Quebrada is probably Salta’s best setting for an afternoon beer. Meals include local specialties like humitas, tamales and empanadas (the arabes are delicious), plus the typical selection of beef, pasta and pizza, all slightly more expensive than you would find in the city but nothing too budget-busting. There are also several tourist stands selling the ubiquitous llama kitsch.
Following the road downhill a few hundred meters will bring you to classy hotels and restaurants, including the gorgeous old castle.