April 27th, 2006 | The lowdown by Mark Burgess

Puesto Viejos: Good News for Your Herd.

The northern city of Salta, capital of its province, is the benefactor of a recent tourism boom, and one may find evidence of this before both feet are even off the bus.

Don’t be alarmed if you find yourself in a swarm of hungry hostel hustlers while retrieving your bag and fumbling in your pockets for tip change and that cigarette you’ve been thinking about for the past sixteen hours; though your bus-lagged, grumpy reaction may be to immediately despise these overbearing employees, they’re generally well-meaning, and the competition amongst hostels simply requires this kind of commitment from them.

Just take a deep breath and start flipping through the flyers – such intense and passionate courtship can often result in discounts for the patient and the savvy.

Among those to be encountered in this hoard is a representative from the Puesto Viejos, I and II. Whether or not this flyer finds its way to your frightened fingers, you can be sure that both are safe, friendly and centrally located, with slightly different draws.

Puesto is an old word used in the Andes which refers to a station for overseeing cattle on a ranch (viejo, of course, means old) and number I has played on this theme in its décor. Located at Jujuy 159, it is a breezy five blocks from the central Plaza 9 de Julio.

This original, or PVI, is a more traditional backpacker place with a computer room (free internet access), a small kitchen, and a covered lounge with a television, a stocked fridge, and a solid selection of board games. There are two terraces with tables and umbrellas and cobblestones, and perhaps most importantly, a brick barbeque built into the wall for their regularly delicious asados.

There are 10 and 6 bed dorms, each with a bathroom (15 pesos, or $5 US) and three doubles, two with private bathroom (25 pesos per person, or $8.50 US; shared bath – 17.5 pesos each, or $6 US), breakfast included. PVI has a lively atmosphere, primarily occupied by backpackers, without descending into the boisterousness befitting its title: no unruly herd here (unless one were to object to the constant crash of a failed Jenga move).

Puesto Viejo II, just opened this past summer, is a quieter, smaller and slightly cleaner alternative, in an equally accessible location at Santiago del Estero 137, also five blocks from the main plaza. It lacks the big dorm, and offers more private accommodations.

The dorms are the same price as in PVI, and the doubles with private bathroom are 30 pesos, or $10 US, per person (with shared bath, 20 pesos, $7.50 US per person), breakfast included. This tends to attract more families and couples, and its mood is a bit more laid-back. There is a lounge here as well, with a television and free internet, and an open-aired, tiled space connected.

The kitchen in PVII is far superior, with at least three times the space to maneuver, for those who appreciate some elbow room for their culinary activities. In the off-season (anytime other than between January and March), you may be able to pay dorm rates and have a private one for a smaller group.

The staff at both hostels are what really stand out. Some work at both, and all are congenial, helpful hosts, ready to entertain. They are well-informed about excursions in the area, from horseback riding to 4X4s to rafting, and will book these for you at reasonable rates. And if you’re there on a weekend, you’ll find that one or more will happily take you along for a complimentary tour of Salta’s nightlife.

So if you find yourself lost in the scrum of the bus terminal, overwhelmed by the sudden collection of paperwork and promises, feel free to skip the circus – the Puesto Viejos are a safe choice likely to meet your diverse needs.